Wednesday, April 2, 2014

Nature of River (Nisai Tonle)





1

On 14 January, 2008 at 6.00 o’clock sharp in the evening, the sun went down below the horizon behind the trees. Chi Phat located in Thmar Bang of Koh Kong province is a small remote village in the heart of the South Cardamoms of Cambodia. Yonks ago the township on the edge of the jungle, had only dusty string of old houses running down a red dirt road,which most structures left over since the 1990s as a site of anarchic loggers.

Shortly thereafter, the silent nature looked as though it was swept by wind. At that time, people still lived on logging, slashing and burning for farming. But they are receiving international tourists enthusiastically.


From the porch of a dilapidated house lighted by two or three electric lights across from an office of Chi Phat Community Based Eco-Tourism, learners voices rose into excited shrieks in the nightfall that that moment there was no star visible in the sky, but cool breeze with some dew fell. The pupils spoke in English simultaneously:

-May you have a good trip for tomorrow!

The students left the class. Meanwhile, two of the women gave me a smile and spoke with me a teacher:

-Thank you very much for your time of our teaching to share our existing knowledge with your students.
           
            “All right, but I would be appreciated you two for your helping hands with my teaching at least one hour.”I replied with my smiling thanks.   

Both of the girls are slim with fair hair and they have fair complexion. One of the two has big eyes looked like a half blood Cambodian. She is Vilay Soumi Phon from Lao, and another one has Chinese eyes wearing glasses looked as though a half Chinese or Japanese. She is called Kim Ngeang from Vietnam.

            “This is the first experience of my teaching. I so much like teaching children, and I also do like.”Vilay Soumi Phon and Kim Ngeang said to me.
-By the way, how long have your students been learning English here? They are so
smart. I am surprised to see one who can post a lot of questions to us.   

I did happily answer while I heard this question, “Actually my students here divided into 5 classes in every day, and this group of children is the class I enjoy offering an extra one hour for the poor family villagers’ children, they have just been learning for only 3 months. But this group I applied in a general English lesson, which is different from the other classes. As you know that I am employed by an International Organization, so I am responsible for providing a specific English skill to all members of the Eco-Tourism project. I mean that they are categories of management team who organize tour itinerary for tourists like you. Besides, they are group members of service providers such as a group of home stay and guest house, Eco guide, a group of the ox cart, the cook, the motor dup ( motor cap) and so on.    

 “Good to hear that.”Vilay Soumi Phon and Kim Ngeang nodded and said.

-How many sessions do you remain for your program? In other word, what time do you finish your teaching? 

-Well, I have just one more hour, that is; it specifies to the group of Eco guide.
Why do you ask me this question? Do you please need me to help you?

 “No, all right! But we are gonna leave here tomorrow. We think it is better to invite you to join our dinner party this evening to thank for your facilitation on our recent tour. Is it ok? “Vilay Soumi Phon said the last word, and left me alone to continuously teaching the class on the old hour porch. 

I smiled and immediately replied, “Thanks my friend, I am a staff of Wildlife Alliance. I have a daily dinner preparing by our rent cook. However it is ok to accept your rare invitation because it is not often to see beautiful girls like you to call me.”
 “You’re hilarious. Ok we are waiting for you at the community’s dining table at seven pm.”Kim Ngeang chuckled!

-Good nite Vithea! Have a benefit teaching for your Nation community.
 “Good nite, See you after this time.”I waved my hand, both of them left away.

At seven pm sharp, I halted my teaching and hurried down from my class of the dilapidated house where is known that it has been long unused.   This house no one can stay inside because the people believe that it is a house of the ghost. Its owner also cannot stay; this is because his former wife’s soul is angry with him for deciding to marry his second wife. His former wife had been ill and it was thought she would get better if she did not eat a mongo.  Unfortunately, before she recovered, she died of starvation.  The villagers say that almost every night they see her ghost haunting here. Many people have seen the ghost carrying a coffin up inside the house - even foreigners. Now this house is used as an English Class by CBET project providing English to the poor villagers’ kids and CBET members.

2
At the dining table under the end piece of the roof of the Chi Phat Eco-Tourism office, At about seven and five minute, dinner dishes Kim Ngeang and Vilay Somiphon ordered had been put on by the group member of the cook, diffused odor soaring around. In the blue plastic chairs by the table sat and waited for by King Ngeang, Vilay Somiphon, an old aged man and another woman in early fifty.  
 “Hello there, sorry for you all in waiting for me”, I said to everybody, and saluted to the old, which is a polite greeting custom in Khmer culture.

“All right Mr. Vythea, here is your chair”, Visomiphon brought the chair and let me to sit next to her.

 “Please have a seat”. The man who has white hair, big build in late sixty, said to me in a muffled voice in Khmer language.
-Well, thanks. Sorry again for your waiting.

“Please don’t mention it; you said that two times already. You are really polite I think I am so lucky to know you. By the way I would like you to know my parents”, King Ngeang introduced me the old who are her father and mother.

 “It is my pleasure to meet you, Uncle and Aunty”, I joined my both hands paying them my respect again treated the old that Cambodian always applied.

“I am honorary to have dinner with you all, please starting the dinner”, said I.

            The extraordinary dinner began in friendship between the Kim Ngeang’s family, Vilay Somiphon and me. While the dinner finished, I pursued in question:

-As I know you and Uncle and Aunt are from Vietnam, but Vilay Somim is from Lao, how come do you know Vilay Somiphon, King Ngeang?

 “We have been friends since we went to the National Graduate Institute, Japan in the scholarship program of politic study. We made a lot of friends there”, Kim Ngeang brought me up to scratch on the history.  

At the end of her explanation, I turned and asked Kim Ngeang’s father:

-Lately you have spoken in Khmer well. How do you speak my mother tongue, Cambodian? Where do you learn it from?

-In point of fact I love and like Cambodia and Cambodian, Vythea. In the 1980s I voluntarily joined and sacrificed in Vietnamese troop of Cambodia’s liberation from Pol Pot regime. During my soldier service I stationed here in Chi Phat. This is why I visit here.  

-I am surprised to hear that, Uncle. I would respect and thankfully laud all Volunteered Vietnamese soldiers. I have also heard from people here that in the early 1980s after the killing field ruled by Pol Pot collapsed. At that time the survivors faced in their shortfall, however; your Vietnamese troop supported them in rice just got back only a small amount of population from their fishing activities.
-You are very smart, Vythea. I would say thank you for your facilitation of our tour package. Yesterday our tour guide also took us on tour to see the Sun rise in the dawn time on the top of Phnom Trangor (Bald Mountain) where it was utilized as my paramilitary barrack. There was the last souvenir in my life.

-What souvenir do you mean, Uncle?

            -There was the Vietnamese military base where we stationed to defense Chi Phat’s villagers from Khmer Rouge guerilla. In fact, the summit of Phnom Tranor was full of forest, but the trees were deforested by Khmer Rouge for their farm. Then the Khmer Rouge rebel was moved to Veal Taprak by Vietnamese army. We were also taken there on tour, yet what important to tell you, particularly my daughter Kim Ngeang, that is; here is the place I fell in love with my wife your mother.

            “So why have you never told me, Dad? Really, Mom?  Kim Ngeang turned and asked her mother.
            “It is true. At that time I was military nurse. I cured and looked after your father while he was shot and injured.”Kim Ngeang’s mother told her daughter.
           
            Tomorrow came, they were sad to say goodbye to everybody. They left Chi Phat unhappily looked as though they were dramatically in love with here. And I still worked as a facilitator and a trainer of the community of Natural and Cultural conservation. And I have been keeping in touch with them on mail or Facebook.  

3

            Four years later, my project at Cardamom was finished. I initially thought of my alerting new idea on Mekong River where is taken seriously. I have written songs on the River’s virtue or other articles related to the Mekong. Recently I sent my closed friend a First Secretary at Cambodian Embassy in Lao one article. Phea and I were kids born lived on the delta of and Mekong River.

..................................................
Phnom Penh 12 Dec, 2012

Phea! How is everything with you? I am fine and I hope you too. How about the people there? And your job in Lao? I really want to visit there. I will submit for my passport soon in order to visit you, and also visit my Lao mate we became a friend whilst she visited my worksite Cardamoms Mountain with her visitors four years ago.
                                                                
Phea! I miss you. This is one of my articles, which I have written to remind you to our hometown. I reckon that Mekong should be cared on. After you finish your reading, please kindly reply..!

Making Salt Fish at Our Hometown

When the Mekong down at the normal level, it was the dry season that our villagers started plowing their farmland. Although I am not sure the exact month, I remembered the time they made a hole on the ground using the long wooden stick to grow the tobacco plants on every farm where is on the other side of the river behind our house. During that month, crickets also started building a mound of soil as their home. It was seen that the tobacco plantation grew in blue leaves.
April has gone; most farmers already harvested the tobacco products. Some made a plough on their land again for other crop rotation such as maize and sesame. The winter came, was the time for a sequence of harvest of dwellers in our village, Koh Sotin (a village located along the Mekong River in Kampong Cham province in Cambodia). That was the season fish egged. In the 1980s Cambodia likely did not have a fishing law to protect the fish in Mekong River,as our country Cambodia had just survived out of the killing field by the Vietnamese Volunteer Military. I also remembered that season the fishers set gill nets, especially they are Muslim. Have you remembered that there are Chams dominated in a downtown near Vat Ta Ouk in our village, they are professional fishers. (There were not many Khmer fishers at the time.)  
At the South Mekong River called by local a river Koh Chen located at the end of lot of the tobacco farmland about 1 Kilometers long from a small river behind our house where is the other edge of the tobacco plantation, Right there it has a broad beach with a beautiful sand perimeter by the river. The Islams camped as their shelters on the sand compound. That fishing lot looked as though a busy town. Not only us, but the people ridded their boats across the small river and walked toward there. On that day we hoisted heavy buckets of fish back from there.
Marking this event in the 1980s, my father also owned his gill net with a lot of workers and could catch a lot of fish. After we brought the fish from the fishing city my mom, your grandma and our neighbors rotated to make salt fish (Brahok Pha Ork). Besides, I also remembered that some of the helpers peeled the scales out of the fish and cut open a fish's belly and marinated them with salt. Some fish were cut the head off and brought them to simmer for fish oil.
At our hometown in that period, they rarely used a kerosene lamp because they have oil from the fish. So they light fish oil lantern instead. Making the salt fish is one part of our villagers’ livelihood. And we are happier to make the salt fish during the waxing month rather than waning month.

With my best regard,
Vythea, your home-mate
..............................................................

            Shortly, I got an email reply from the secretary of the embassy to spur me to ask for a fast passport. He pledged to lead his friends into the goal because his buddies also captivated the Mekong River should been cared of biodiversity in, and environment for people’s sustainable livelihood.

4


Shortly after, my travelling to Lao came. Before that I sent my email to inform Vilay Somiphon and Kim Ngeang about it, and I hoped I met Vilay Somiphon in Lao,too.

            On 12 December 2013, a bus arrived in Vientiane. At dawn at the Dong Dok where the station for Khmer buses and for Southern people vehicles land, there were passengers wearing cold jackets because that month was as cold as Cambodia. I got off the bus after it took me 24 hours. Meanwhile I was looking around for my friend​​ who promised to pick me up here, the voice raised up:

“Eh! Vythea I am here.”Sophea my buddy the secretary of Royal Embassy of Cambodia held his hand.
“Thank you, Phea for your coming and waiting. As you know this is the first time for me to have a trip in Lao.”I hugged my chum.

-How things with you friend?
-It is ok. What about you?

So far so good, what is your impression on your arriving in here?

- I am so surprised. In all, when I reached Pak Se at around five pm I started to feel nervous of being afraid of you not coming to pick me up. If so, I was unaware of going anywhere!

“Let’s go for your accommodation. We can chat latter on.”My friend took me by a motorcycle about 12 Kilometers from the Vientiane City.

5

At the place Phea took me to is called DongDok Campus, where Cambodian students stayed. Most students are under scholarship program of Lao, facilitating by Khmer Embassy here. Right there a man who has dark complexion wearing spectacle, and another man came to welcome us.

“Brother Phea! He is your friend from Phnom Penh, right?” the man who has dark skin asked.

-Yes, Chum Nor.

“Good morning Brother!” Chum Nor greeted me.

Chum Nor was a Cambodia student who attended Lao Language and Linguistic and telecommunication at Literature Department of Lao University. Now he has been studying Doctor of Education in Educational Administration in Thailand. He introduced me to know his accompany.

           
- Brother! This is my friend from Thailand. He is Brachub.

“Savatt dhi Brachub”Yindhi thidai ruchak”I greeted him in Thai.
           
-Savatt dhi Krab! Dhi Chhan Ko Yindhi thidai ruchak Khun.
             
“Vythea! Please come upstairs to have a rest, for this noon we go to have lunch together at Khob Chai.”My friend led me up the stair and Chum Nor carried my backpack went up with us. Brachub followed.

In the bed room Phea guided me:
             
Here is your bed Vythea. How long are you going to stay here? Don’t be hurry to go back. we gonna lead you on tour to visit the cave of the mountain, go swimming, visit Vat Cham Pa Sak temple, visit at the minority community. Phasum resort,  Pra Korn waterfall and so on. By the way, have you informed your Lao friend about your presence here? Does she know you arrival?

            - I mailed them before I decided to travel here. But I haven’t gotten any reply from them. I reason that they are busy.
           
            -All right, please take a nap, for we are going to have Buffet by the river this noon.

6
            Lunch time came; at about twelve o’clock at the riverside of Vientiane city the breeze blew with a cold air even though in the Sun. We all reached the place Khob Chai that it was called Sabai Dhi. This restaurant is serving Buffet and some drinks.

            We got off the Tuk Tuk and walked in a queue to self serve the buffet, and sat at the table together. While Phea, Chumnor, Brachub and I were eating and talking, three women appeared toward our table.
                                                                                                                                              “He Brother Phea!”The three girls spoke to my friend. Getting a glimpse of three I felt two of them I have known that they Kim Ngeang and Vilay Somiphon. In the meantime, I made a slip of my tongue:
-You’re Kim Ngeang and Vilay Somipon, right?
-All right, Mr. Vythea! We are very surprised to meet you again in here.
-Oh my Buddha! My goodness, it is taken aback. Why didn’t you reply to my mail and let me know about that.
            “We want to make you surprise.”Kim Ngeang and Vilay Somiphon said to me and turned to introduce another girl to us:
            - You all, this is Nai Thuon, our friend from Burmma.
            “Nai Thuon, you look like prettier than before.”Phea patted her hands.

            “Aaah! How come you know her?”I took aback.
            “They are my classmates. We had politic class together at National Graduate Institute in Japan. As a matter of facts, after Vythea mailed me on the song lyric script of Nature of River and CC them, meanwhile I knew they are also my friends. So I organized this meeting to surprise you.” Phea clarified me.
            It was incredible that you all made friends to each other before I knew them. In reality, Chum Nor also knew Nai Thuon, as she had a class with him before going to the university in Japan. Expressing an unbelievable excitement, everybody took a sheet of paper from their hand bags and put them on the table:
............................................................
Nature of River
Written by Vythea
All right reserved
               

The river flows into the sea is the nature for people                                    
And the water is all the greatest favor.

The Mekong is the nature as the bond of a friendship                                
Others even if wide and narrow look like the blood vessel.

The water coconut trees (Nipa fruticans) beautifully bend at the channel,
The most beautiful sand on the beach at the Ream,

ChakTomouk is the heritage of the resource,
Good view of the bridges across of the river which are built by the nation.
               
Tule Sab River,
It is the fishing lots
Clear sea and river are the property of us.                                     
Imploring all people not destroy an environment
As the river offers our prosperity,
The river is for our Community’s tourism activities
The river also gives love in Cambodia.


................................

            Phea stated saying:
            - We all like your script so much. We had never thought that you could be a good writer, and brought us unprecedented attention to our River. Definitely Mekong is one of the rivers looks like our blood channel. It is the source only to supply all countries and people in the Mekong region and sub-region. It not only provides as a tourism service to generate the local income but it also contains of the biology and pure water to support the livelihood.  Yet right away the local aware not enough of the Mekong River benefits, and they are tackling our environmental river pollution by using the toilet on the water and shedding the poisonous substance into the river as well as doing illegal fishing. Besides, they are snatching the benefit from the Mekong in lack transparency, especially not study on it sides- effect from constructing the hydro- electricity damp and so on. We thank you so much for your initiative and having today. We all reason that we will disseminate the advantage and the river impact to the people to aware of caring on the river for our sustainable livelihood.
            While we were concentrating to listen to my friend who said about the Mekong conservation and attention plan, two other women and men reached the place and two of them in my dim memory as Kim Ngeng’s parents. They said simultaneously to us:
            Welcome to your action plan. We are mother and father of King Ngneang and Vilay Somiphon. We are happy to join with your vision and mission by support fund in publishing the book in order to educate our people in defending our river for our lives.
          For sure, King Ngeang’s father was one of the Vietnamese soldier saved Cambodia and fully quitted the Pol Pot regime on 7 January, 1079. He also stationed to protect Cambodian out of the Khmer Rouge in the site of Cardamom in the period of the decade of the 1980s and at that time he also conserved the fauna and flora especially the Siamese Crocodile at the site.​​ He likes nature and conservation.
………………
            After I was taken to visit most resorts, visited Vilay Somiphn house, in the evening time the Mekong river side in the Vientiane city the sky is clear we sat in the concrete bench looking into the Sunset at the far horizon on the other side of the river but there was another Sun disc floating on the current was the Sun’s fiery glow on the water surface that the shape makes us fall into clear understanding that we can loss of one of both Sun and River. River’s current is compared to our life. So we were pleased to look forward to seeing the sunlight at the next dawn for everybody to care of and to not hurt the river of our life.


                                                                                                            Written by Ty Theavy

No comments:

Post a Comment